A Little Romance in Geneva

Compared to its French neighbor Paris, a mere three-hour train ride away, Geneva is often associated with images of skis or Gruyere cheese, rather than romance.

But I dare to differ.

A walk around the lake’s translucent water and families of swans is inspiration enough to cite poetry. Lac Léman also inspired philosopher and writer Jean Jacques Rousseau in the Nouvelle Héloïse, with such passionate letters between lovers that the novel was once banned.

Geneva will always bring about feelings of love, for it’s the city in which I met my now husband.

In the spirit of le Saint Valentin, below is a list of 10 places I find to be the most romantic in the city.

Witness the Rhône and Arve Rivers Kissing at Pointe de la Jonction

Standing high on an arched viaduct one can see out into one of the most curious natural phenomena in the country: the Pointe de la Jonction.

If the Arve river is Dr. Jekyll, spending its time navigating mountainous valleys and French villages, the Rhône, a rapid flowing river beginning in the Swiss Alps before descending throughout Switzerland, France and out into the Mediterranean Sea, is Dr. Hyde. The Pointe de la Jonction is where these two opposing forces become one.

The stark difference in color between the dark hues of the Rhône and the cloudy green of the Arve is due to the different flow velocities, which create a visible dividing line between the two rivers, preventing the water from instantly mixing.

Located further away from the center of Geneva, the view of the Pointe de la Jonction is serene, two steps away from a forest housing the Bois de la Bâtie wildlife park. Whether alone, en amoureux, or with children, la Bois de la Batie is a fantastic way to spend an afternoon, seeing peacocks, deer, billy goats, owls, and other of nature’s inhabitants, completely free of charge.

Get a Box Seat at Victoria Hall

Stepping foot into Victoria Hall feels like entering the inside of a music box.

The room is dimly lit as an orchestra begins to play in front of a large wooden organ, one of the most famous in Europe. The scene is illuminated by ornate Baroque-style golden walls, drawing the eyes up past deep red cushioned box seats and blocks of painted pastel blue, colors that remind me of an old-fashioned carousel.

At the request of British Consul General Daniel Fitzgeralad Packenham Barton, passionate about classical music, the theater was constructed in 1894 as a tribute to Great Britian’s Queen Victoria. Today the space is home to the Orchestre de la Suisse Romande, a symphonic orchestra made up of 112 permanent musicians.  

To date, Victoria Hall has opened its stage to a variety of artists, including Broadway singer Lisa Simone (daughter of Nina Simone), jazz saxophonist, clarinetist, and composer Sidney Bechet (whose music is famously featured in Woody Allen’s film Midnight in Paris), and Grammy award winning Jazz vocalist Gregory Porter.

In the past, curious spectators could watch the Swiss orchestra’s rehearsals on Wednesday evenings for CHF 20. While this option is currently not promoted on the theater’s website, the City of Geneva has recently launched les Concerts du dimanche, an initiative of one Sunday concert a month to promote local artists, with tickets ranging from CHF 10 to 26.

Address: Rue du Général-Dufour 14, 1204 Genève  |  Program: https://www.leprogramme.ch

Indulge in Truffle Coated Pasta at Jeu de l’Arc

While some feel love in the form of gifts or compliments, my language is being fed copious amounts of carbohydrates.

Jeu de l’Arc is a no fuss restaurant, with few menu options that assure quality in taste. The space is intimate, with few tables within earshot of one another to eavesdrop on any good gossip. The room is a hodgepodge of odds and ends that feel like a grandmother’s carefully cultivated home, with antique pans, wooden Swiss clocks, paintings of topless mermaids and circus tamers, and large bronze statues.

Owner Gabriello Orlanni and his sidekick Mambo, a Lagotto Romagnolo, find truffles to supply the restaurant throughout the year (videos of the hunt may be found here). The restaurant takes pride in its beef entrecôte with truffle butter, displayed in large letters on its exterior. A menu is also on offer for truffle mega fans, including a starter, main course and dessert infused with the luxury fungi at CHF 99.

An emblematic spot in Geneva for over 75 years, Jeu de l’Arc is no cheap date, with homemade pasta topped with freshly grated truffle at CHF 55 a dish (luckily, portions are generous and websites such as The Fork have offers up to 50% off).

Address: Av. de Frontenex 5, 1207 Genève  |  Website: https://jeudelarc.ch/

Watch Flamenco and devour Spanish Tapas at Soleil Rouge

At the center of Soleil Rouge is a large wooden table, forcing normally timid Genevois to convene at its center like a watering hole in the savanna. The noise of neighboring conversations gives the impression of being invited to a friend of a friend’s house party.

Instead of ordering from a menu, clients walk over to the kitchen and inform the cooks of their desires, such as shrimp slathered in olive oil, freshly sliced Spanish jamón, Manchego cheese or fresh anchovies, chosen from a long list of tapas. The décor is in its bottles upon bottles of Spanish red wine, with a proposed selection of four or five bottles at the counter organized in order from lightest to boldest.

Events at Soleil Rouge are organized on an ad hoc basis, from Flamenco dancers to guitar duos or even salsa soirées. One of my favorite evenings while living in Geneva was watching a Flamenco concert at which spectators sat shoulder-to-shoulder around a makeshift stage, nearby shelves normally holding wine glasses cleared for the dancers. My partner and I sat on a cramped staircase, watching the performance through the banisters. I was captivated by the dance – seemingly aggressive steps, heels stomping against a wooden floor, a tribute to femininity and that inner strength found when life seems to have knocked everything out. The music was sung in words I didn’t understand, but the vocals seemed to carry with it centuries of pain.

Soleil Rouge does not accept reservations under groups of 10, thus arriving earlier in the evening will assure a better chance of snagging a much-desired wooden bar stool.  

Address:  Bd Helvétique 32, 1207 Genève  |  Website: https://soleilrouge.ch/

Climb 157 Stairs to the Top of Saint-Pierre’s Cathedral

Crowds gather in front of Saint Pierre’s Cathedral each December during the city’s annual Escalade celebration.

Dating back to 1160, the cathedral was stripped of its ornate interior when catholic mass was abolished in 1535 during the Reformation, in line of moving the focus from elaborate paintings to the written word.¹

For 7 CHF, adventurers may walk up the 157 steps through concrete and wooden staircases, past the bell tower reaching a panoramic view at the highest point in Geneva’s Old Town. The view stretches to Lake Geneva and its accompanying jet d’eau, a water fountain spouting 500 liters of water per second.

For those unable to make the climb, a virtual tour of the cathedral may be viewed here.

Address:  Cr de Saint-Pierre, 1204 Genève  |  Website: https://www.cathedrale-geneve.ch/en/practical-info/

Time Travel at Café Remor

Stepping into Café Remor smells like a small-town Casino.

The heavy curtained door leading to the 100-year-old establishment protects the interior from the cold Alpine winds, while absorbing cigarette smoke that trails from nearby writers, artists, theater goers and students.

On a drizzly Tuesday morning, the café is filled with early risers completing crossword puzzles, the same crowd that pauses to sift through printed newspapers.

My favorite table is the one in the far-left corner with a brown leather booth, next to a large window. The space is dimly lit by light fixtures that look like French cancan dancers in red skirts; bloomers tapped around the bulbs. At 7:30 a.m., classical music plays, helping customers ease into the day ahead. Sipping a cappuccino, Café Remor feels like the set of a 1940s Hollywood picture, or pulled from the pages of a heart-wrenching romance.

Owned by the Remor family for three generations, the café is a Geneva institution. The coffee is fine, as is the food, neither of which are to write home about. The entrance has two large yellow rabbits that, in an odd turn of events, have both been kidnapped on different occasions (one found in the Rhône), and rightfully returned. Although the tables are wiped down, they seem to have gone through centuries of conversations that cannot be removed, leaving a dull finish.

While it isn’t the cleanest, the most modern, nor the most bustling of cafes, something about the Remor feels like home.

Address:  Pl. du Cirque 3, 1204 Genève  |  Website: https://remor.ch/

Marvel at the Musée Ariana

There are museums, and then there are sanctuaries- places in which art serves as more than a painting to observe in passing. Such is the Musée Ariana.

The view once stepping through the wooden door is spellbinding- comprised of two-stories supported by spiraled columns leading to a Tiffany-blue ceiling. The space is peaceful, surrounded by a fountain and nearby park, and equipped with a cozy cafe in-between visits through its culturally diverse ceramic art galaries.

The museum’s collection began with a vast array of objects from the travels of Gustave Revilliod, a Genevois whose hefty family inheritance allowed him to pursue his dream of traveling the world. Over time, Gustave’s mansion at 12 Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville had become overcluttered from his haul of ceramics, tapestries, weapons, furniture, paintings, and gold coins from the Far East and North Africa. Gustave’s collection didn’t focus on Masterpieces of the time, but rather objects that showcased the human expression.

Named after Gustave’s mother Ariana who encouraged his artistic pursuits, the museum and surrounding park were opened to the public in 1883. Today the museum houses approximately 28,000 objects, making it one of the most comprehensive collections of historic ceramic and glass in the world.

Address:  Av. de la Paix 10, 1202 Genève |  Website: https://www.musee-ariana.ch/

Bask in Bubbles at Bain-Bleu Hammam & Spa

Bain-Bleu is a spa equipped with indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs, steam rooms, and a bistro, offering a vast spread, from Alo-wearing It-girl quinoa-based salads to fruity cocktails. Besides overlooking Lake Geneva, clients are allowed to carry their drink of choice into the whirlpool with them, sipping while massage jets tickle their toes, fingers turning prune like from the 35°C (95°F) water.

In a word, Bain-Bleu resembles an adult version of Disney World.

Victim of its own success, Bain Bleu is often extremely crowded. I learned this during my first winter in Geneva, when I decided to venture to the spa on a Friday night alone. To my surprise, the spa felt like hormones were on high, a nightclub in a swimming pool with intimate couples to my left and right.

Timing is key to enjoying the experience, as is reserving ahead of time, preferably either on weekdays or on Saturdays before noon.

Address:  Quai de Cologny 5, 1223 Cologny |  Website: https://bain-bleu.ch/

Spend a Brief Moment in Time at Na Village

To date, Thailand has been my one my favorite countries that I’ve had the opportunity to visit. While I hope that someday we can try living there for a moment in time, for now we make do with dining at Na Village in Geneva’s Saint Jean neighborhood. Our family are regulars at Na Village for special occasions, so much so that the staff has begun to recognize us. We have a favorite table (on the top tier to the left furthermost corner) and, weather permitting, enjoy sitting in a wooden Thai Pavilion in the restaurant’s garden, built next to a stream with colorful fish and bamboo plants.

Every detail of the Na Village’s décor has been thoughtfully considered, including authentic tableware, hospitality offerings to Budha, and large statues throughout the main dining area, even integrated into the bathroom sink.

We begin dinner with the house cocktail, a Pepto Bismol pastel pink beverage with a colorful straw and orange slice. The concoction is strong. I note hints of lychee but stick with the principle of not asking too many questions to deter from the drink’s mystery (words that sound like music to every drink spiker).

Dancers perform each evening to traditional music in period clothing such as panung, a garment tied around the waist or Sinh, handstitched silk skirts. We watch as our mouthwatering dishes arrive. My choices typically consist of a soup made of chicken, yellow curry, coconut milk and lemongrass, followed by a main course of wolf fish coated in ginger, red peppers and soy sauce. Bellies aching, our eyes get the best of us, and we decide to wash everything down with matcha ice cream and mango sticky rice.

Address:  Rue de Saint-Jean 57, 1203 Genève |  Website: https://www.navillage.ch/

Hop Aboard a Belle Epoque Steamboat

Saving the very best for last, the Compagnie générale de navigation (CGN), is a truly unique experience when visiting Geneva. In the summer, steamboats within the CGN’s Belle Epoque fleet venture from Geneva to Yvoire (read about our experience here), while lunch and fondue dinner cruises may be reserved during the winter.

The CGN’s mission statement aims to preserve its Belle Epoque fleet as close to the original appearance as possible, a pride in cultural heritage landing the restoration of the steamboats an award by Europa Nostra in 2014².

Eight boats journey across Lac Leman between France and Switzerland (of which a virtual tour of the interiors may be viewed here). A helpless romantic with a penchant for experiences reminiscent of another time period,  a voyage abord an early 1900s steamboat is the way to my heart.

Reservations with the CGN:  https://www.cgn.ch/en/our-cruises.html

---

1. Introduction – Fondation des Clefs de St-Pierre. (2023, September 9). Fondation Des Clefs De St-Pierre. https://www.cathedrale-geneve.ch/en/introduction/ ↩︎
2. Simone, B. (2019, January 31). Switzerland: Association of Friends of Lake Geneva Steamers joins Europa Nostra – Europa nostra. Europa Nostra. https://www.europanostra.org/switzerland-association-friends-lake-geneva-steamers-joins-europa-nostra/ ↩︎