Stay in a French Château: A Night at Burgundy’s Enchanting Château de Longecourt-en-Plaine

Unlike most property rentals on Airbnb, ours was family owned, dating all the way back to the 13^th century, and managed by a Count.

When learning that the Château de Longecourt-en-Plaine was a two-hour drive within reach, my soul sister Polina and I decided to pretend to be members of high society during the Regency era for a weekend, exploring a part of France that neither of us had given much thought prior.

Our mini road trip was weird in all the right places. For one, the weather could not decide if it wanted to rain or rather cast warm sunlight. Instead, it showered “cats and dogs,” as noted by Polina, followed by golden sun, leaving behind a surprising rainbow. Second, our first sight in Dijon was the local country line dancing club. Which, you may be surprised to learn, is absolutely, positively, not a thing in France. And if that weren’t strange enough, Dijon is world famous for mustard, with production dating back to the Middle Ages.

After an afternoon of eating snails and exploring one of the hubs of UNESCO-listed French wine production, we drove 15 kilometers to what appeared to be an industrialized area. After turning a corner, we gasped, like tweens walking into a Forever 21 for the very first time. Two towers appeared, protected by a moat sprinkled with water lilies and guarded by stone dogs, originating from the Dark Ages.

The Stories Behind the Château

“I really feel as if I’m walking up the stairs in my own home — as if this castle were mine,” Polina said as she ascended the wrought-iron staircase toward the Grand Salon. With only five rooms, the château offered an intimacy rarely found in hotels.

Owned by the Le Gouz de Saint-Seine family since the 1600s, the Château de Longecourt-en-Plaine has witnessed centuries of history. France’s former queen, Catherine de Médicis, even stayed here in 1594 while touring the country with her son, the future king — a campaign designed to bring hope to a devastated nation.

Known by many names — from the Serpent to the Black Queen — Catherine de Médicis remains a figure of intrigue. Historians still debate the extent of her influence over the persecution of Protestants. Today, guests can even stay in the same room where she once slept, located on the second floor and accessible through a hidden passageway.

During the Second World War, the Château lodged Nazi officers until 1944, when the Germans were replaced by American soldiers.

Deeply touched by history, I couldn’t help but wonder whether its corridors still hold the spirits of those who came before — or perhaps it was simply the October chill, a delightful spook in honor of Halloween.

The Experience: From Guest to Fictional Heroine

At 7:00 a.m. our bedroom window was covered in a new morning mist. I pressed my hand to the glass, wiping off condensation, staring beyond the water lilies into a lush green field., hints of cherry apple red leaves painted on iron wrought rails.

Oftentimes it is sunrise or sunset that is most inviting for portrait photography, yet our golden hour was reduced to an overcast sky, leaving a subtle haze of the land.

Throwing on floor length gowns (it’s not everyday that one finds herself in a chateau, after all), we opened the creaking door to the castle grounds, mid-thirty somethings playing dress up and organizing a photoshoot as when I was a teenager. Strangely enough, that past time never went away (nor do I wish it to)!

Behind the chateau we passed des pommiers – apple trees leaving scattered fruit upon the wet earth, Polina collecting apples and fallen leaves to press in a book back home (an activity that she planned for her autumn bucket list).

We gasped as we found ourselves in front of a 300-year-old tree, appearing as a star in a Disney movie such as Lion King or a distant relative of Grandmother Willow in Pocahontas. I tried to climb, only to slip on its glistening trunk, scratching my skin on the dark green ivy that crawled its interwoven roots up to the starts of its branches.

We took photos in the chilly October air, joined only by a deer sprinting across the field ahead, disappearing within seconds into the trees, well hidden from human sight.

We returned bundled up in sweaters for breakfast, again the only ones in the dining area, the oldest part of the chateau.

Practical Magic: How to visit

Getting to the Château de Longecourt-en-Plaine

Dijon is about a three-hour train ride from Paris or Lyon; however, the journey is much more appealing if you have a car at your disposal, allowing you to go off the beaten path and dive headfirst into the rolling valleys and sea of autumnal colored vineyards.

From Dijon, the Chateau is 15 kilometers away (about nine miles). Again, this is easier to access by car, or alternatively by catching an Uber or taxi from Dijon.

How to reserve your stay

The Château de Longecourt-en-Plaine is easily booked directly on their website here or via Airbnb.

Closed during the winter months, the Château is open for reservation from April until end October.

Things to experience near the Château

Try the wine…

We drove through the narrow streets of Burgandy’s Route 66 equivalent- the Route des Grands Crus, surrounded by golden vines buried in century-old limestone soil. While located within the same area, no two vineyards are alike, making Burgandy’s wine internationally recognized by UNESCO. We stopped by a wine cellar along the way, where we learned from the owner that the variations of inclines in the valleys produced differing tastes, dependent on the amount of sunlight received. More sunlight means more sugar.

…and the mustard

Dijon and mustard is one of France’s most long lasting culinary love stories, with roots dating back to the 13^th century. Mustard seeds were once cultivated by monks alongside the region’s grapevines. After the Second World War, many of these fields were converted to grow colza (rapeseed), leaving France to import nearly 80 percent of its mustard seeds from Canada.

While visiting, take a peak at the mustard bar at Moutarderie Fallot, which uses traditional methods to make mustard by soaking seeds in water, salt, vinegar and white wine. Flavors range from mustard with honey and fig, or a variant with blackcurrant and white wine, mustard with Madras curry, or even Gingerbread mustard for the holidays.

Explore Dijon

Dijon is one of France’s great culinary capitals, birthplace of beloved dishes known far beyond its borders — from boeuf bourguignon to snails bathed in garlic and butter. The city can easily be explored in a day, especially by following the Owl Trail (le Parcours de la Chouette), which winds through Dijon’s most picturesque cobblestone streets.

At the heart of the trail stands Dijon’s most endearing guardian — a small stone owl carved into the side of the Église Notre-Dame. For nearly three centuries, this owl has been listening to the wishes of passersby. Locals say that if you touch it with your left hand while making a wish, your heart’s desire is sure to come true.